Note: Hangzhou CHINABASE speed reducer(gearbox)Co.,Ltd.  is the drives exporter from China, buy drives go to : http://www.speedreducer.org/

In early 20th century automobiles prior to the introduction of power steering, the effect of a flat or blowout on one of the front wheels will tend to pull the steering mechanism toward the side with the flat tire. The employment of a worm screw reduced this effect. Further development of the worm drive employs recirculating ball bearings to reduce frictional forces, allowing some of the steering force to be felt in the wheel as an aid to vehicle control and greatly reducing wear, which leads to difficulties in steering precisely.

Worm drives are a compact means of substantially decreasing speed and increasing torque. Small electric motors are generally high-speed and low-torque; the addition of a worm drive increases the range of applications that it may be suitable for, especially when the worm drive’s compactness is considered.

Worm drives are used in presses, in rolling mills, in conveying engineering, in mining industry machines, and on rudders. In addition, milling heads and rotary tables are positioned using high-precision duplex worm drives with adjustable backlash. Worm gears are used on many lift- (in US English known as elevator) and escalator-drive applications due to their compact size and the non-reversibility of the gear.

In the era of sailing ships, the introduction of a worm drive to control the rudder was a significant advance. Prior to its introduction, a rope drum drive was used to control the rudder, and rough seas could cause substantial force to be applied to the rudder, often requiring several men to steer the vessel, with some drives having two large-diameter wheels to allow up to four crewmen to operate the rudder.

Worm drives have been used in a few automotive rear-axle final drives (although not the differential itself at this time). They took advantage of the location of the gear being at either the very top or very bottom of the differential crown wheel. In the 1910s they were common on trucks; to gain the most clearance on muddy roads the worm gear was placed on top. In the 1920s the Stutz firm used them on its cars; to have a lower floor than its competitors, the gear was located on the bottom. An example from around 1960 was the Peugeot 404. The worm gear carries the differential gearing, which protects the vehicle against rollback. This ability has largely fallen from favour due to the higher-than-necessary reduction ratios.

A more recent exception to this is the Torsen differential, which uses worms and planetary worm gears in place of the bevel gearing of conventional open differentials. Torsen differentials are most prominently featured in the HMMWV and some commercial Hummer vehicles, and as a center differential in some all wheel drive systems, such as Audi’s quattro. Very heavy trucks, such as those used to carry aggregates, often use a worm gear differential for strength. The worm drive is not as efficient as a hypoid gear, and such trucks invariably have a very large differential housing, with a correspondingly large volume of gear oil, to absorb and dissipate the heat created.

Worm drives are used as the tuning mechanism for many musical instruments, including guitars, double-basses, mandolins, bouzoukis, and many banjo’s (although most high-end banjos use planetary gears or friction pegs). A worm drive tuning device is called a machine head.

Plastic worm drives are often used on small battery-operated electric motors, to provide an output with a lower angular velocity (fewer revolutions per minute) than that of the motor, which operates best at a fairly high speed. This motor-worm-gear drive system is often used in toys and other small electrical devices.

A worm drive is used on jubilee-type hose clamps or jubilee clamps; the tightening screw has a worm thread which engages with the slots on the clamp band.

Occasionally a worm gear is designed to be run in reverse, resulting in the output shaft turning much faster than the input. Examples of this may be seen in some hand-cranked centrifuges or the wind governor in a musical box.

 

June 28th, 2012

6/28/2012

 
A test ride can convey valuable information about a used motorcycle, but before you go for a spin here are ways to find potential problem spots.


If you’re shopping for a used motorcycle, the most important thing to look out for is the condition of the frame. The smallest crack or hairline fracture on a frame can not only qualify the bike for a salvage title, it can pose a potential safety hazard.


Don’t even consider a bike with any sort of frame damage, including dents, weld tears, kinks or fractures. Remove the seat and/or any easily removed body parts that can obscure parts of the frame, and if necessary use a flashlight to illuminate any portions of the frame that might be too dark to see.
Well-maintained chains should last a long time, but when they’re neglected they can cripple a bike– and worse, endanger the rider’s safety.

Performing a visual inspection of a chain might reveal corrosion, but you should also check

Chinabase sprocket

 its flexibility by pushing and pulling a section, moving the bike a few inches forward, and repeating until you’ve tested the entire length of the chain. It should move roughly between three quarters of an inch and one inch in either direction. Also take a look at the sprockets(Hangzhou chinase machinery is the leading sprockets  manufacuturer & exporter, site: http://www.power-transmissions.com/). The shape of their teeth should be even, and their tips shouldn’t be excessively worn off.

Clean battery leads indicate that a bike hasn’t been sitting unattended. Though clean leads won’t necessarily reveal the longevity of the battery, a lack of corrosion is a good sign you should look for. Most batteries are found under the seat, so don’t be shy about lifting it to take a peek at the state of their leads.

Next, take a look at the tires and make sure that wear is evenly distributed, not focused on one side. Tread depth is key to wet traction, and if you put a quarter coin inside the tread it shouldn’t go below George Washington’s head. Proper inflation levels will also ensure that tread patterns are even; more more detailed tire inspection information, read our tire inspection and maintenance article.

Once you’ve taken a look at the individual components, sit on the bike, grab the front brake, and try compressing the forks; they should react with firm resistance, and rebound all the way back to their starting point. Also, inspect the forks for oil leakage and/or surface irregularities.

If the bike has a center stand, prop it up and turn the handlebar from lock to lock. The bar should be free from irregularities or bends, and the head should move smoothly in either direction.

After inspecting key mechanical components, you’ll want to look for anything that’s missing– whether it’s parts of the fairing, side covers, small nuts and bolts, or pieces of trim. Seemingly harmless parts can be surprisingly expensive to replace, so call a dealership to get an estimate of what it will take to get them replaced. Budgeting for necessary parts and taking into consideration when it’s due for its next routine maintenance will help give you an overall idea of how much that used bike will cost.

And if all of these points seem cumbersome, just remember that doing your homework up front will make buying a used bike that much more rewarding down the line.

ARTICLE SOURCE: http://www.chain-sprocket.info/archives/2012/how-to-inspect-a-used-motorcycle/234

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